Java Fern
- Height
- 6–13 in
- Growth
- slow
- Temp
- 68–82 °F
- pH
- 6–7.5
Tie or glue the rhizome to wood or rock; burying it causes rot. Black spots under the leaves are normal spore patches and plantlets.
128 freshwater and 88 saltwater plants, corals, fish and invertebrates.
216 shown
Tie or glue the rhizome to wood or rock; burying it causes rot. Black spots under the leaves are normal spore patches and plantlets.
Attach the rhizome to hardscape and keep it uncovered. Slow leaves can collect spot algae, so avoid placing it under strong light.
A miniature form ideal for nano tanks and tucking into rock crevices. Glue or wedge the rhizome in place rather than burying it.
Large, tough leaves suit tanks with plant-nibbling fish. Mount on wood toward the back or midground; divide the rhizome to propagate.
Attach the rhizome to rock or wood; many varieties show blue or purple sheen in moderate light. Very slow, so keep leaves clean of algae.
Mount the rhizome on wood in an area with good water flow. Can be slow to settle in and dislikes frequent moving.
Tie thinly with thread or mesh to hardscape. Trim regularly so lower layers do not brown and trap debris.
Forms layered, triangular fronds that look best with moderate light and cooler water. Spread thinly when attaching.
Grows in upright, twisting flame-like tufts. Attach small portions to wood or rock and trim tips to keep it dense.
A fern gametophyte with no roots; wedge or tie it onto hardscape. Pieces that break off will grow into new clumps.
The smallest common crypt; plant separately and give it time to spread by runners. Needs more light than most crypts to stay compact.
Spreads by runners into a grassy lawn; root tabs help. Stays shorter under stronger light.
Plant small portions close together in fine substrate. Can carpet without CO2 but grows much faster and flatter with it.
Split into small plugs and plant them about an inch apart. Trim to encourage runners and a denser lawn.
A very short hairgrass that forms a fine turf with little trimming. Plant tiny clumps densely; spreads slowly at first.
Needs strong light and CO2 or it grows upward instead of creeping. Plant single stems deep in nutrient-rich substrate.
One of the smallest carpeting plants; plant tiny portions in aqua soil with CO2 and strong light. Trim thick carpets so lower layers do not rot and lift.
A slow but undemanding carpet that stays lower in brighter light. Mostly forms single leaves submerged rather than four-leaf clovers.
Plant individual stems and trim the tops to push side shoots for a bushy foreground. Benefits from root tabs.
Plant small clumps spaced apart and allow time to spread by runners. Keep it clear of debris and algae while it establishes.
Often melts after planting but regrows from the roots; do not dig it up. A heavy root feeder that benefits from root tabs.
A hardy, bright green crypt that tolerates a wide range of conditions. Expect some melt after planting.
Compact red stem plant for foreground-to-midground bushes. Needs strong light and good iron dosing for deep red color; grows without CO₂ but stays greener.
Trim often to shape into dense mounds or let it creep. Replant the cuttings to fill in quickly.
A spotted hybrid sword that stays more compact than the Amazon sword. Feed with root tabs and give it room to spread.
Plant the bulb only halfway into the substrate. Trim lily pads that reach the surface to keep the compact underwater leaves.
Long, crinkled strap leaves make a background that needs little trimming. Tolerates harder water; root tabs help.
Tops turn pink to red under stronger light. Trim and replant tops to build dense bushes.
A redder Rotala that colors best with high light and lean nitrate. Trim regularly to keep stems bushy.
Delicate leaves are easily damaged, so handle gently. Needs stable CO2, strong light and good nutrients.
Fine, needle-like leaves turn pink to red in soft, acidic water with strong light. Stunts quickly if CO2 or iron is low.
An adaptable stem plant whose leaves turn redder under strong light. Replant trimmed tops for a fuller group.
Shows deep red color with high light and iron. Trim tops and replant to keep the group dense.
Thick, upright stems that tolerate a wide range of conditions. Tops can take on a bronze tint under strong light.
A very fast, forgiving stem plant that helps outcompete algae. Never release it.
On the US federal noxious weed list; selling or moving it across state lines needs a permit. Check your state's rules before buying.
Leaf shape becomes more finely divided under stronger light. Trim often; cuttings root easily.
Stiff stems with needle-like leaves give a bright, bushy accent. Plant stems a little apart so lower leaves get light.
Fast, feathery stem plant that can shade others if not trimmed.
On the US federal noxious weed list and prohibited in Texas; selling or moving it across state lines needs a permit. Check your state's rules before buying.
Orange-red leaves need strong light, CO2 and steady nutrients. Lower leaves drop if shaded or if nitrate runs out.
Needs soft, acidic water, strong light and CO2 to thrive. Avoid disturbing the roots once established.
Spreads quickly by runners to form a tall background screen. Keep the crown above the substrate when planting.
Ribbon leaves easily reach the surface of tall tanks and trail along it. Best for larger tanks; cut long leaves at the base.
Tall, needle-thin rushes that sway in flow. Plant in clumps and remove old yellowing stems at the base.
A large rosette that needs space and nutrient-rich substrate or root tabs. Remove outer leaves as they age.
Plant the bulb just at the substrate surface. It may go dormant after months of growth; leave the bulb in place to regrow.
Plant the bulb halfway in the substrate and feed with root tabs. Trim surface pads to keep it bushy underwater.
Has no true roots; float it or weigh it down. Soaks up nutrients quickly but may shed needles after moving.
Grows rapidly whether planted or floating, providing cover for fry and shrimplets. Thin it out often.
Keep the tops dry and use gentle surface flow. Remove extras regularly so it does not block light; never release it outdoors.
Prohibited in California and Washington. Check your state's rules before buying.
Leaves and roots turn red with strong light and low nitrate. Dislikes water splashing on its leaves and strong surface agitation.
Hairy leaves repel water; keep surface flow calm.
Texas prohibits all Salvinia; several other Salvinia species are federal noxious weeds, so buy from a seller who labels it S. minima. Check your state's rules before buying.
Multiplies extremely fast and absorbs excess nutrients. Nearly impossible to remove completely once added.
Needs space under the lid and humid air above the water to avoid leaf burn.
Prohibited or restricted in Alabama, California, Connecticut, Florida, North Carolina, South Carolina, Texas and Wisconsin. Check your state's rules before buying.
A fast fern that grows planted or floating and soaks up nutrients. Plantlets sprout from the leaves; never release it outdoors, as it is invasive in parts of the South.
A tall, broad-leaved stem plant for the back of bigger tanks. Buy from a reputable seller: it is sometimes mixed up with the restricted Hygrophila polysperma.
Thick, succulent leaves that goldfish-sized nibblers tend to leave alone. Slow but very tough.
A compact sword plant with red-brown spotted leaves. A heavy root feeder; give it root tabs.
Dark, crinkled leaves from a bulb, suited to tall tanks. Often rests for a few months each year; leave the bulb in place.
Long, wavy ribbon leaves that can reach four feet in a tall tank. Slow, but tough and rarely eaten.
Nearly unkillable and spreads fast over rock and glass. Put it on an isolated rock so it cannot take over.
Its polyps pulse like tiny hands. Grows like a weed in some tanks and not at all in others; keep it on its own rock.
Drops small branches that root and spread. A forgiving first coral.
Sheds a waxy skin every few weeks and looks closed while it does. Releases chemicals that can bother stony corals; run carbon.
A tough leather with finger-like lobes. Like other leathers, it can chemically irritate nearby stony corals.
Soft and fluffy, and grows fast. Trim it back so it does not shade its neighbours.
Thrives in low light and low flow and multiplies steadily. Can overgrow slower corals beside it.
Hairy-looking mushrooms that can grow large. Keep them away from corals you do not want them to crowd.
Bright, bumpy mushrooms that are more sensitive than other mushrooms. Wait for a stable tank before adding them.
Colourful button polyps that spread across rock. Wear gloves and eye protection when fragging: many contain palytoxin.
Larger than zoanthids and can spread aggressively. Often high in palytoxin: never boil its rock, and wear gloves and eye protection.
Sends out long sweeper tentacles at night. Give it 6 inches from other corals; it tolerates other Euphyllia better.
A favourite host for clownfish. Its sweepers sting hard, so space it well away from everything else.
Branching tentacles tipped like frog eggs. Like all Euphyllia, it needs room around it for its sweepers.
One of the easiest LPS corals. Grows faster if you feed it small meaty foods.
Peaceful and easy for an LPS. Branches into more heads as it grows.
Hardy and colourful, with long sweepers at night. Keep other corals a few inches away.
Comes in striking colours and eats readily. Place it low in gentle flow.
Puffy red polyps that do well low in the tank. Peaceful toward neighbours.
Grows as a colourful plate and fights neighbours with sweepers. Give it space to spread outward.
A free-living coral that sits on the sand, not on rock. Can move and sting corals it bumps into.
Lives on the sand bed in low flow. Feed it small meaty foods once or twice a week.
Often declines in home tanks even when everything else thrives. Not a beginner coral.
The usual first SPS: fast-growing and forgiving by SPS standards. Needs stable alkalinity.
Grows in layered plates and tolerates less light than most SPS. Plates can shade corals below them.
Thin, brittle branches that break if bumped. Sensitive to swings in temperature and alkalinity.
Thick, stubby branches in pink and purple. A good step up from Montipora.
The most demanding common coral: needs strong light, strong flow and very stable chemistry. Add only to a mature, stable tank.
The easiest host anemone for clownfish. Add only to a tank six months or older, and cover powerhead intakes: it wanders.
Stays put in the sand or a rock crevice, unlike most anemones. Clownfish rarely host in it.
Colors best in a dense group in a planted tank with dark substrate. Leaves adult shrimp alone but will eat newborn shrimplets.
Diet: Micropredator: crushed flakes, micro pellets, baby brine shrimp
Shy fish that need dense planting to feel secure; males spar but rarely cause harm. Will eat shrimplets but not adult shrimp.
Diet: Micropredator: small frozen and live foods, micro pellets
Borderline for shrimp: generally ignores adults but will pick off shrimplets. Best in a larger group with plenty of plants.
Diet: Omnivore: micro pellets, crushed flakes, small frozen foods
Needs soft, acidic water to do well. Usually safe with adult dwarf shrimp but will eat shrimplets.
Diet: Micropredator: small frozen foods, micro pellets, crushed flakes
Breeds readily, so plan for fry or keep males only. Borderline for shrimp: adults are usually left alone but shrimplets get eaten.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, small frozen foods
Keep one male with several females, as males are territorial with each other. Often refuses prepared food and will hunt shrimplets.
Diet: Carnivore: live and frozen foods; often refuses dry food
A surface dweller that jumps, so use a tight lid. Keep in a group with more females than males; eats shrimplets.
Diet: Micropredator: small live and frozen foods, floating micro pellets
Males make audible croaking sounds during displays. Prefers still water and dense plants; will hunt shrimplets.
Diet: Micropredator: small frozen foods, micro pellets, flakes
Keep only one male per tank and avoid fin-nipping or flashy long-finned tankmates. Many bettas hunt shrimp, but individual behavior varies.
Diet: Carnivore: betta pellets, frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp
Add only to a fully cycled, stable tank. Often fine with adult shrimp but will eat shrimplets, so it is marked not shrimp-safe to be cautious.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, small frozen foods
Prefers warmer, softer water than neon tetras. Looks best in large groups under subdued light.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Hardy and active tetra for community tanks. Keep in a group to reduce stress.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Tight schooling behavior shows best in a long tank. A faded red nose often signals stress. H. rhodostomus and Petitella georgiae are sold under the same name.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Yellow color intensifies with a varied diet and dark surroundings. Keep in a group; males display to each other.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
A very hardy tetra that tolerates a wide pH range. Good for beginners.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
The orange stripe glows best over dark substrate. Peaceful and hardy in a group.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Needs soft, acidic water and small, frequent meals. Males spar but rarely injure each other.
Diet: Micropredator: small live and frozen foods, micro pellets
Excellent jumpers, so a tight lid is essential. Feeds only from the surface.
Diet: Insectivore: floating flakes, small frozen and live foods
Spawns on the underside of broad leaves such as crypts. Keep in a group to show natural schooling.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
A smaller relative of the harlequin rasbora suited to planted tanks. Keep in groups for confidence and color.
Diet: Omnivore: micro pellets, flakes, small frozen foods
Very active and needs swimming length and a lid. Can nip fins of slow, long-finned fish if kept in small groups.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
A cool-water fish that does well in unheated rooms. Avoid pairing with tropical species that need warmer water.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
One of the most peaceful barbs; males turn deep red. Keep more females than males.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods, some vegetable matter
Active and may nibble soft or fine-leaved plants. Prefers cooler water and a large group to limit fin-nipping.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, vegetables, frozen foods
A gentle gourami that can be kept singly, in a pair or in a small group. Appreciates floating plants and calm water.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Keep only one male per tank, as males are territorial. Buy from a reputable source because this species is prone to dwarf gourami iridovirus.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
A calm centerpiece fish; keep one male or a male with females. Will eat shrimp and very small fish.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
Keep as a pair or one male with females, with caves for each. Becomes territorial when breeding and will eat shrimp.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen foods, quality pellets
Needs warm, soft, very clean water, so check that tankmates tolerate the heat. Territorial when spawning.
Diet: Omnivore: frozen foods, small sinking pellets
Hardier than the German blue ram and peaceful for a cichlid. Sifts sand for food.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, frozen foods
Provide caves; pairs become aggressive while guarding fry. Digs around plant bases, so anchor plants well.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, flakes, frozen foods
Needs a tall tank; grows taller than it is long. Adults will eat neon tetras and other small fish as well as shrimp.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
Males are territorial, so keep one per tank and provide caves. Often refuses dry foods.
Diet: Carnivore: live and frozen foods
Add only to a mature tank with established biofilm, as new arrivals are often underfed. Among the safest fish for shrimp.
Diet: Herbivore: biofilm, soft algae, algae wafers, blanched vegetables
Provide driftwood and caves; males can be territorial with each other. Produces a lot of waste, so filter well.
Diet: Herbivore: algae wafers, vegetables, driftwood
Unlike most cories, often schools in midwater as well as on the bottom. Use soft sand and keep in a group.
Diet: Omnivore: micro pellets, small sinking foods, frozen foods
Prefers cooler water than many tropical fish. Does not hunt adult shrimp but will eat shrimplets it finds.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, wafers, frozen foods
Tolerates warmer water, making it a common companion for rams and discus. Keep on soft sand in a group.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, wafers, frozen foods
Nocturnal and burrows in soft sand; cover filter intakes. Borderline for shrimp: ignores adults but eats shrimplets. Most sold as kuhli are Pangio semicincta.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, frozen bloodworms, wafers
Needs cool, highly oxygenated water with strong flow and smooth rocks. Not suited to warm tropical setups.
Diet: Herbivore: biofilm, algae, algae wafers, small frozen foods
Eats black beard algae mainly when young and grows larger than many expect. Often confused with the aggressive Chinese algae eater; may eat shrimplets.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, wafers, pellets, frozen foods
Hardy and breeds readily in a mature planted tank. Sensitive to copper and sudden changes in water parameters.
Diet: Omnivore: biofilm, algae, shrimp pellets, blanched vegetables
A color variety of the same species as cherry shrimp. Keep separate from other Neocaridina colors or offspring revert to brown.
Diet: Omnivore: biofilm, algae, shrimp pellets, blanched vegetables
An excellent algae eater that will not breed in freshwater, as larvae need brackish water. May pick at moss if underfed.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, biofilm, pellets, leftovers
Needs soft, acidic water, usually RO water remineralized and an active buffering substrate. Keep water cool and stable.
Diet: Omnivore: biofilm, specialized shrimp foods, leaf litter
Can hybridize with crystal red shrimp, so keep them apart if breeding pure lines. Prefers stable, moderately soft water.
Diet: Omnivore: biofilm, algae, shrimp pellets
Opportunistic and may prey on dwarf shrimp, shrimplets and fry. Often sold as feeders, so quarantine new arrivals.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, leftovers, detritus
Needs steady current in a mature tank to catch food with its fans. A shrimp constantly picking at the substrate is likely underfed.
Diet: Filter feeder: suspended particles, powdered foods
Despite the name it is a gentle filter feeder. Provide flow and hiding places; it is shy until settled.
Diet: Filter feeder: suspended particles, powdered foods
A top algae eater that cannot breed in freshwater, though it leaves white eggs on hardscape. Needs hard water for shell health.
Diet: Herbivore: algae, biofilm, algae wafers
Lays egg clutches above the waterline; remove them to control numbers. Mostly leaves healthy plants alone if well fed.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, leftovers, wafers, vegetables
Breeds quickly when food is plentiful; population size reflects overfeeding. Eats soft algae and dead plant matter.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, detritus, decaying plants, leftovers
Burrows through the substrate and helps prevent anaerobic pockets. Livebearing and prolific, and hard to remove once established.
Diet: Omnivore: detritus, leftovers, algae
Needs warm water with a high pH; breeds slowly, producing one baby at a time. May eat soft or delicate plants if underfed.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, wafers, vegetables, detritus
Hunts and eats other snails, including nerites and mystery snails, so it is useful for pest control. Safe with healthy shrimp but may scavenge weak or dead ones.
Diet: Carnivore: other snails, meaty sinking foods
Active swimmers that need a long tank; the blue-and-orange colours take a year or two to develop. Buy captive-bred: wild populations are endangered.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
A small rainbowfish with red fins that suits a planted community. Leaves adult shrimp alone but eats shrimplets.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, micro pellets, frozen foods
Males grow long, flowing fins and iridescent colour. Shows best against dark substrate and floating plants.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
Fast, tough and always moving, so it needs swimming length and a lid. Can outcompete slow fish at feeding time.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
Also sold as the roseline shark. Likes cooler, well-oxygenated water with strong flow. Buy captive-bred; it is endangered in the wild.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
Sold as small juveniles but grows slowly to 10 inches or more and can live for decades. Very prone to ich; quarantine new ones.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, frozen foods; eats snails
Boisterous and social; keep a group so the squabbling spreads out. A good natural snail control.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, frozen foods; eats snails
Territorial toward other bottom fish and anything that looks like it. Keep one per tank, with caves and plants to break sight lines.
Diet: Omnivore: sinking pellets, algae wafers, vegetables
A calm, silvery gourami, gentler than most of its size. Appreciates floating plants and still water.
Diet: Omnivore: flakes, pellets, frozen foods
One of the milder cichlids its size, but defends a territory when breeding. Digs a little; anchor plants well.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen foods
A personable, fairly peaceful cichlid that eats soft plants. Pair with anubias, java fern and other tough-leaved plants.
Diet: Omnivore: cichlid pellets, vegetables; eats soft plants
Peaceful and striking in a school, but will eat almost any plant. Use tough epiphytes, or plan a mostly hardscape tank.
Diet: Herbivore: vegetables, spirulina pellets; eats most plants
Needs very warm, very clean water and large, frequent water changes. The high temperature limits which plants and tank mates will cope.
Diet: Carnivore: discus pellets, frozen bloodworms and beefheart, several times a day
Sold as 2-inch juveniles, but a school of adults needs a tank six feet long or more. Jumps when startled; keep a tight lid.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen foods
The classic first saltwater fish; captive-bred ones are hardy. Keep one or a pair, and only one clownfish species per tank.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen mysis and brine
Nearly identical to the ocellaris, with thicker black edging. Pairs readily; will host in an anemone but does not need one.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen mysis and brine
The largest and meanest clownfish; females will bully most tank mates. Add it last, and keep it away from other clowns.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen mysis
One of the milder damsels, but still territorial once settled. Very hardy; not a fish to use for cycling a tank.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen foods
Cheap and tough, and grows nasty with age. Hard to catch once you regret it, so think before adding one to a peaceful reef.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen foods
Groups tend to dwindle as the dominant fish picks off the rest. Keep one, or five or more in a tank of 75 gallons and up.
Diet: Omnivore: pellets, frozen mysis
Slow and calm. Buy captive-bred: wild populations are endangered. Pairs are fine; adult groups often fight.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
Hangs in one spot near cover and comes out more at dusk. Can be kept as a small group in a larger tank.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
Perches at a burrow on the sand bed, and often pairs with a pistol shrimp. Territorial toward other bottom gobies.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
A tiny fish that perches among branching corals. Good for nano reefs.
Diet: Carnivore: small frozen foods
Shy and a notorious jumper, so a lid or mesh cover is essential. Keep one per tank unless you have a mated pair.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis and brine
A small cleaner fish, usually captive-bred. Short-lived, around two years.
Diet: Carnivore: small frozen foods; picks parasites off other fish
Keeps sand spotless by sifting it constantly. Often starves in a new or small tank without enough life in the sand.
Diet: Carnivore: sifts sand for food; supplement with frozen foods
Grazes algae off rock and glass. Can starve once the algae is gone, and fights with other blennies.
Diet: Herbivore: film algae; nori once it runs out
Small, curious and full of personality. A good blenny for a nano reef.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, frozen foods
Swims in open water more than most blennies. Keep one per tank.
Diet: Omnivore: frozen foods, algae
The mildest dottyback, and usually captive-bred. Eats bristleworms and small pests.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
Claims a cave and guards it. Peaceful with other species, territorial with its own.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
Unusually, can be kept as a small group. Hardy and easy to feed.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets
A great pest hunter that can turn bossy toward shy fish added after it. Jumps, so keep a lid on.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen foods; hunts pests like flatworms
Buries itself in sand at night, so it needs a sand bed. Jumps; keep a lid on.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen foods, pellets
An active open-water swimmer that needs length to swim. A notorious jumper, so a lid is essential.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, pellets, several times a day
Needs frequent small feedings, so an auto-feeder helps. Keep one male with several females.
Diet: Carnivore: small frozen foods at least three times a day
Often sold into small tanks, but needs a long one: about six feet. Aggressive toward other tangs of similar shape.
Diet: Herbivore: nori and algae sheets daily, plus frozen foods
One of the best algae grazers and milder than most tangs. Still needs plenty of swimming room.
Diet: Herbivore: grazes film algae; supplement with nori
Sold as small juveniles for tanks it will quickly outgrow. Very prone to ich, so quarantine it first.
Diet: Omnivore: nori, frozen foods
Grows far larger than the juveniles in shops suggest. Plan for a very large tank from the start.
Diet: Herbivore: nori and algae sheets daily
The most reef-friendly dwarf angel, but individuals vary. Keep one dwarf angel per tank.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, frozen foods, angel formula
Stunning, and a gamble in a reef: some never touch corals, some pick at them constantly.
Diet: Omnivore: algae, frozen foods, angel formula
Its fin spines are venomous, so net it rather than handling it. Peaceful and hardy.
Diet: Herbivore: nori, algae; eats nuisance algae
Usually starves in a new tank. Add it only to a tank at least six months old with a healthy copepod population, or buy one already eating frozen food.
Diet: Carnivore: live copepods; captive-bred ones may take frozen foods
Digs a burrow, so it needs at least 3 inches of mixed sand and rubble. One of the worst jumpers; a lid is essential.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis and brine
Perches on rock and watches everything. Fine with corals, but ornamental shrimp are at risk.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen foods, pellets
Bought to eat Aiptasia anemones, which it often does. Can be hard to get eating, so ask the shop to show you it feeding.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, clams on the half shell; often slow to start eating
Leaves corals alone, but not small fish or shrimp. Its spines are venomous.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen meaty foods; wean off live food
Full of character and suited to a fish-only tank. May nip slow, long-finned fish.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen shellfish, snails; hard foods keep its teeth worn
A fish-only tank centrepiece. Keep only with other robust, similar-sized fish.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen shellfish, krill, squid
Sensitive to sudden salinity swings, so acclimate it slowly. Molts every few weeks; leave the shell for it to eat.
Diet: Scavenger: leftovers; cleans parasites off fish
Bought to eat Aiptasia, though many sold are look-alikes that ignore it. Nocturnal.
Diet: Scavenger: leftovers; may eat Aiptasia anemones
Shyer than the skunk cleaner and spends the day in caves. Acclimate slowly.
Diet: Scavenger: leftovers, small frozen foods
Pairs with a watchman goby and shares its burrow. Makes a loud snapping sound.
Diet: Scavenger: leftovers
Bought to eat bubble algae. Feed it once the algae runs out, or it starts looking at corals.
Diet: Omnivore: eats bubble algae; supplement with nori
A cheap clean-up crab. Add a few empty shells of larger sizes so it does not take them from your snails.
Diet: Scavenger: algae, leftovers
One of the better algae-eating hermits and gentler than most. Still provide spare shells.
Diet: Scavenger: algae including hair algae
A strong algae eater that bulldozes loose frags off rock. Glue corals down.
Diet: Herbivore: hair and film algae
Can right itself when it falls over, unlike astreas. Breeds in the tank.
Diet: Herbivore: film and diatom algae
Lives buried in sand and pops up at feeding time. Needs a sand bed.
Diet: Scavenger: leftover meaty food in the sand
Small and good at getting into gaps in rockwork. Turns sand over as it feeds.
Diet: Herbivore: film algae, cyanobacteria, detritus
Cannot right itself if it falls on its back; flip it over if you see it stuck.
Diet: Herbivore: film and hair algae
Carries bits of shell and rubble on its back. Needs plenty of algae to graze.
Diet: Herbivore: coralline and film algae; supplement with nori
A nocturnal scavenger that hides under rock. Avoid the green brittle star, which catches fish.
Diet: Scavenger: leftovers under the rock
Usually starves within months in most home tanks. Generally better left in the shop.
Diet: Carnivore: small animals in the sand
Can drop its crown after moving or stress, then grow a new one. Needs fine food in the water.
Diet: Filter feeder: phytoplankton, fine particulate food
One of the smaller, calmer tangs and a good grazer. Still wants a tank at least four feet long.
Diet: Herbivore: grazes film algae; supplement with nori
Striking and hardy, but one of the more aggressive Zebrasoma tangs, especially toward other tangs. Add it last.
Diet: Herbivore: nori and algae sheets daily
Banded orange and blue with bright blue teeth. Fine with corals, but the clean-up crew becomes food.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen shellfish, krill, pellets
One of the few triggerfish usually kept in reefs: it feeds in open water rather than tearing up rock.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen mysis, krill, pellets
A hardy, fairly calm eel for a fish-only tank with plenty of rock caves. Escape artist: every gap in the lid must be closed.
Diet: Carnivore: frozen shellfish, squid, silversides